STYLE SECRET - Andrea Brugnoni
Does a closet need to occupy an entire room?
Certainly, according to the sophisticated set of the 1700s, and also according to Andrea Brugnoni, who shares an entire circular room with his wife each morning: “It is a place for meeting up in and having a moment’s intimacy as a couple”.
We are in Milan, surrounded by closet doors in a room that has been expressly sacrificed and converted into a walk-in closet, with a central seating arrangement that reflects a certain type of living room that is practically obsolete.
The actual Brugnoni-mix, donned since the age of 14, is so precisely construed as to have earned him the nickname, stylistically speaking, of “The grandfather”.
Firstly, our attention focuses on his knitwear, grouped by different weights behind the various doors – thick knits below, lighter garments above and vests on top – followed by a further subdivision by colour. Leaving the colourful world of wool and cashmere behind us, we go on to examine his suits.
Trousers in the lower sections, with a succession of 3 suit categories above. In order of appearance: dinner jackets, morning dress and ceremonial outfits, all stored in garment bags. These are followed by heavy pinstripe suits, one of his “trademarks” and finally, the spectrum of blues, arranged in order of weight and shade. All tailor-made, all neatly arranged: “At the moment, there aren’t a lot of unmatched jackets…”. Untidiness? “Chromatic”.
1 - Only wood shoe forms for the elegant models. The shoe cleaning kit is within easy reach and his comes from the London store of New&Lingwood in Jermin Street, famous for their skull and crossbones ties, as well as their shoe department.
2 – a series of loafers, mostly Tod’s, which he considers to be timeless: “The scruffier they are, the better they look”.
3 – the same goes for his suede ankle boots.
4 – trainers provide the flashy touch to his grandfather-like elegance. Current obsession: vividly coloured Glide trainers.
His long-cherished dream : a faultless style has always afforded him perfect satisfaction.
Out: “The use of a pocket handkerchief. I’ve never managed to wear one. I love it on others but not on me”.